Peeling (Hydroxy Acids) — a gentle yet effective way to exfoliate and visibly refresh the skin.
Hydroxy acids — mainly AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs — are used in cosmetic and dermatological procedures known as acidotherapy (acid-based therapy). This therapy works by dissolving dead skin cells, stimulating collagen production, and improving skin texture and tone. Depending on the type and concentration of the acid, acidotherapy can target acne, pigmentation, dullness, fine lines, and uneven skin texture. Learn more about skin pH: https://jcadonline.com/skin-surface-ph-in-acne-vulgaris-insights-from-an-observational-study-and-review-of-the-literature/
Main Types of Hydroxy Acids:
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)
Commonly used AHAs in skincare and acidotherapy:
- Glycolic acid – derived from sugarcane; the most potent AHA, smooths wrinkles and brightens the skin.
- Lactic acid – from milk; hydrating and gentle, ideal for dry or sensitive skin.
- Mandelic acid – from bitter almonds; antibacterial and suitable for acne-prone or sensitive skin.Citric acid – from citrus fruits; brightens and refines pores.
- Malic acid – from apples; mild exfoliant that enhances radiance.
- Tartaric acid – from grapes; an antioxidant that supports skin renewal.
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids)
Key features of BHAs: Oil-soluble → deeply cleanse pores and reduce blackheads. Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial → ideal for oily or acne-prone skin. Help smooth skin texture and reduce redness.
Common BHAs used in skincare and acidotherapy:
- Salicylic acid – the most common BHA; oil-soluble, penetrates pores to dissolve sebum and prevent acne.
- Betaine salicylate – a gentler alternative to salicylic acid, suitable for sensitive skin.
PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids)
Key features of PHAs: Large molecular size → slower penetration and less irritation. Hydrating and barrier-strengthening → ideal for sensitive, dry, or post-procedure skin. Provide antioxidant protection and gentle exfoliation.
- Gluconolactone – a gentle exfoliant with strong humectant (moisturizing) properties; strengthens the skin barrier, suitable for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.
- Lactobionic acid – derived from lactose; antioxidant, deeply hydrating, helps reduce fine lines and even skin tone.
- Galactose – naturally found in milk sugars; promotes cell renewal and collagen synthesis while being very mild.
⚠️ Safety Notes
Below pH 3.5, acids become significantly stronger, and concentrations above 10% are considered professional-grade and should be used only by trained clinicians!
Safe limits for at-home acid products: Concentration: up to 10% total acid (AHA, BHA, or PHA). pH: not lower than 3.5 — ensuring the product remains effective but non-corrosive, minimizing the risk of burns or barrier damage.
Learn more: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3047947/?utm_source=chatgpt.com
How Acids Affect Your Skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)
Your skin naturally contains the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) — a blend of amino acids, urea, and other molecules that keep your skin soft, hydrated, and protected.
When used correctly, gentle acids (like AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs) at safe concentrations and balanced pH levels help remove dead skin cells without harming the NMF.
Some ingredients, such as lactic acid and PHAs, can even boost NMF production, improving hydration and barrier strength over time.
However, strong acids or too-frequent use can strip away moisture and weaken the skin barrier, leading to dryness or irritation.
💡 Tip: To keep your skin healthy and glowing, choose well-formulated products and consult a licensed skincare professional before trying new acid treatments or higher concentrations.
Learn more: https://jcadonline.com/a-guide-to-the-ingredients-and-potential-benefits-of-over-the-counter-cleansers-and-moisturizers-for-rosacea-patients/?utm_source=chatgpt.com and https://jcadonline.com/fundamentals-of-skin-barrier-physiology/?utm_source=chatgpt.com